samedi 11 août 2007

From Kinshasa - Christmas letter - 2006

3rd of December 2006: If I close my eyes for a moment and listen to the sound of joy coming from the "kinois" (name for the Kinshasa inhabitants) who have taken the streets of Kinshasa to celebrate the victory of the first democratic elections in 40 years (if ever really), I could think, for a split second that I am back in Rome in July when the Italians won the "Mondiale".

However, the noises are different; in Italy the predominant noise was "honking". In Kinshasa (where less than 10% of the 8 million inhabitants own cars) there is no honking instead; I hear the joyous beat of tam tams and "whistles". These are used at weddings and even at funerals (honestly, I have never seen people having a better time than at funerals; especially for elderly people - Congolese believe they have had a rich and long life being an elderly is an exploit in a country where life expectancy averages 43 years).

Alas, as the "Mundele" that I am ("white" in Lingala) and contrary to Rome where I joined Italians' celebrating, I can not do so in Congo. We have been summoned to leave the office early and stay at home. Following the August events (where I spent 2 days on my kitchen floor being the blind witness to an uprising but where I heard distinctively the noise of rockets, Kalashnikovs, mortars and tanks), the United Nations has applied "tight security rules" for the staff who has remained in the country. Tonight, Bemba (the opposition leader and looser of this election) could retaliate, no one would be surprised, as he does not "believe" the elections have been fair!

Since August, both Bemba and Kabila (the elect President) have been arming their troops. There are more soldiers posted at corner streets than there are stop signs! The Supreme Court of Justice was also set into fire a few weeks ago only, while we were waiting for the elections results (it took almost 3 weeks as nothing is computerized in the field); this was another coup from Bemba.

Back to the celebration evening I am "witnessing" in Kinshasa. The compound where I reside is safely "tuck" behind a 3 meter high wall. Hearing such joyous noises, I cautiously venture to take an "historical eye witness peek". Congolese have taken on the streets and are walking by, singing their happiness and pride and hope of a better future for basic rights such as:

- free primary education;
- accessibility to potable water (meaning a proper well providing clean water, I am not talking here of the fancy idea of obtaining running water in houses, a luxury not thought of) and;
- roads' rehabilitation (imagine, in a country as big as Europe, DRCongo has only 300 km of routes and I am not talking above paved roads but dirt roads!).

Above all, resumption of security is the main concern; the national army should receive regular salaries this alone would stop ramping looting and false taxation from soldiers. Last, I hope that political efforts will be made to stop impunity and that children will be left "to simply be children".

On 5th of December, I heard another bang, this time the noise had a joyous connotation. It represented a symbol of hope as President Kabila was sworn in.

Today Sunday 17 December, during the Latin Mass, while the Priest preached on "waiting for the arrival of the new born who will save the world", I saw a bird flying over my head; he started singing, I took it as a good omen. The circle is now complete, the noises have transformed into a delicious song of hope and peace for this New year where waiting will finally end for Congo, Charlotte (my adoptive daughter I will pick up some time in 2007) and for myself. I hope it is for you too

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