From my kitchen floor - August 2006

Dear friends,

In DRCongo, the elections’ results announced late on Sunday night have resulted in warfare between the presidential guard and the opposition leader’s personal force (who also happens to be the Vice President in this transition government), in Kinshasa, the capital.

By coincidence, my bungalow is un-conveniently located some 700 meters away from the headquarters of Mr. Bemba, the current Vice President and at the same token, opposition leader. This HQ will be the centre of the warfare for the 3 days.

I am just like a blind person, I can hear the “sheer madness” but I am imprisoned at home, behind tall walls (thank god for it). Hence, what to do to give me some peace besides praying and practicing yoga? Write, as I have always done… Hence, I have decided to share the events and its developments, as I live them. As I start this “confinement diary”, I have no idea how long we will hide. Will we have to go through this again? What will be the security situation for us in Kinshasa from now on until the next tour?

First, I set up my own little “headquarters”: my equipment comprises of three basic communication assets: first, a hand set radio (and a rechargeable battery), allowing constant contact with the United Nations Security Office. The latter provides insight and advises on staying put and on the ground when fighting is too heavy. The second, is my portable telephone, it allows me to be in direct and constant contact with my colleagues and my friends outside DRCongo. Last, but not least, my short wave radio (in Africa, the international French radio presents hourly development updates).

Not much is seen on TV. Euro News has no images which depict the situation we have gone through. I have not seen anything on BBC or on CNN. Priority news such as a plane crash in Ukraine makes it ahead of the events in DRC. I get a feeling that I am in the eye of the storm but no one cares. Tom could light up my lantern??? Does it go by the number of deaths??? It suddenly occur to me that when one goes through these events “live”, we realise how little the world cares. Surely Lebanese felt that way recently, how to blame them? This is how I often felt when I lived in North Korea and/or when I worked in the refugee camps in Rwanda. We are one world but with so many compartments that do not touch one another, as it seems but they do, the world just like to forget it…

Why all this fighting about, you may ask? I frankly do not have the answer. However, it’s based on the elections results which were announced on Sunday night.

On 30th July, DRC held its first democratic elections (without the help of the international community it would have been impossible) in 40 years. The Congolese were so proud to vote, imagine, an entire generation who had never done so… On first August, people were rejoicing and you could read their

Story will tell at the end of this email.
Day I: Sunday 20 August 2006

On Friday, the United Nations Security team told us to prepare for an eventual confinement and we were told to stay home from Sunday on-wards. I bought fresh water jerry cans, food (lots of pasta for me) and candles (they usually cut electricity off on Sundays). I just had no idea what to expect.

11h00: I sneaked out of my compound but did not take the office UN car as it’s forbidden. I am “mentally preparing” for the events ahead. Elections results will be announced tonight at 20h00. Exhilarating, I am realising a secret dream I have had since I was a child. The polo “maillet” is long. I am trying to hit the ball without hitting the poor horse’s legs or face

20h00: Elections’ results are post-poned to 22h00. Better this way, there will be less people in town so less problems.

22h10: The round of fire guns has initiated. Still do not know why exactly but the mess has started for how long, no one knows...

23H00: Luckily for us, this Sunday, electricity has not been cut off as it is usually on Sundays… Great, my frozen food has remained… frozen.

24H00 : Hell has broken loose, fighting around the forest compound about, some 3 km away from here and near by the UN Forces in Dacono called MONUC. Five deads and lots of internationals stranded in their offices in the embassies… It has gone wrong. I go to bed but keep counting the sheep without sleep arriving… as I hear constant fighting. Finally, I doze off to be awaken throughout the night…I do not sleep well…

Day II: Monday 21 August 2006

07H30 : My new boss sends a message that all is calm and we may proceed to the office. I believe she is making a major mistake. I first check with my sources and find out that its better to stay home and monitor the situation. As history has proven to me (remember Mongolia when I escaped death), I’d rather prefer to listen to my gut feeling than any other order.

I immediately call my team, composed of 7 persons; two of them are international and the rest are national staff. I suggest, against the new boss’s order (and yes, I will bear the entire responsibility if she does not agree with my judgement) to remain at home. They will all listen to me but one lady, Véronique. Later, she will have serious troubles getting back home…

Throughout the day : The day was calm, too calm perhaps as one could feel tension in the air. There has some fighting on and off yet it’s not pleasant as some seem very close. I avoid going outside in my garden, you never know, a lost ball and you are hurt. Apparently this is what happened to a Japanese national last night. He was on his balcony to see what was happening and bang, he was shot dead. Some detonation behind somewhere…

14H00 : I find out that my new boss finally comes to her senses (after strong convincing arguments from my colleagues) and decides to leave the office with the few “brave” who had showed up. I knew that if I showed up I could face serious problems in getting back home. Some other from other UN agencies, embassies and European Union personnel will be stranded in their offices until 22H30 tonight while other have slept at the office. They will finally be escorted by the MONUC tanks to their homes while bullets are flying right and left. An Italian friend comes back and is in shock. Some will sleep there…

16H00 : I had just fallen asleep, suddenly, a strong detonation wakes me up. They are now beginning what will become a “non stop six hour fight” which I become a “listening witness” to (as I can not see anything but hear everything). As I mentioned earlier, my house is located some 700 meters from the centre of the events.

Next time, I promise to myself, when I choose a house, I shall inquire about my neighborhood’s background. Lesson learned!!!

18H00 : Dawn is setting on Kinshasa, usually; it’s my favorite time of the day. Today it’s different; the birds’ songs are covered by the noise of the guns, Kalashnikovs, canons and mortars, all shouting near by. The heavy fighting has been raging for two solid hours now.

20H00 : I have been on the alert non stop since 16H00. I am scared, really. Too close for comfort. The Presidential guard (Kabila) and the opposition Leader troops (Bemba) have intensified their fighting near by. Mortars, guns, raffle, you name it, I have not seen it, and just the noise has convinced me of “real warfare” in my neighbourhood. By staying on the floor, I will avoid any “lost bullet”…

20H30: The guard Maturin knocks at my house, he is collected coffee for the national army who’s stationed itself in front of our gate. This means money and/or food. I give him 10 USD. Some of my neighbours will prepare rice for the 10 soldiers.

21H00: The Representative of the United Nations and the six ambassadors I mentioned earlier, met with the opposition leader and Vice President’s (Bemba) house has been shot at by the Presidential guards. This is why fighting has been so intense in the past hours. The UN and European forces (EUFOR) have arrived on the scene and are trying to negotiate their safe return to the UN base camp.

21H15 : This intense and heavy fighting has been raging for over five hours They are some eight thanks located near by. I am thus writing sitting on my kitchen floor, as far as possible from the window. I am writing live. I do not see anything, but I hear the warfare. Luckily for me, Michel my best friend and head of Okapi Radio (the UN sponsored by the Swiss) explains what is going on. I describe what I hear and he tells me what it means. I am a blind witness. Nothing on TV about DRCongo, I find it strange. The world does not know and/or does not care?

21H30 : Two lost balls have landed in my garden!! I have stayed on the floor since 16H00. I am drafting this portion of this diary from my kitchen floor. I have sat as far as I could from the windows while facing a wall. That’s my best protection. Problem with the Congolese is that they do not know how to shout straight. That’s why there are so many “collateral” damages when they fight.

21H45 : The UN and European troops were able to get them out of the bunker, all safely back to MONUC headquarters. The international community has helped the country in providing safe and democratic elections and this is the way its two mean leaders react. If I was an Ambassador, they would surely hear from me.

22H00 : My Senegalese colleague has been escorted by soldiers out of the hotel to another one away from the storm. While I spent these six hours on my kitchen floor she spent that time on her bathroom floor. To each it’s own floor!!! We kept in touch all afternoon, even cracking jokes over the phone, providing comfort to one another amidst madness.

01H30 : More firing, will it ever stop so I can fall asleep and find comfort in my dreams? My boy friend called to check on me. He tells me he is coming back only on 31st August. I am disappointed, I am so psychologically exhausted by this intense bombing and firing, I just wished Olivier was here with me; it would be so much easier…

Day III : Tuesday, 22 August

5h45 : I was awaken not by the roster’s but rather by loud artillery (tanks, rockets and mortars). Nice way to start what I realize is going to be my 2nd day of confinement. The two factions (the Presidential guard and Bemba’s - the opposition leader’s troup) are fighting near by the Congo River. In the main time, there is also fighting near by the leader’s house: Bemba. Let’s forget about Breakfast at Tiffany’s and let’s call it instead: “Breakfast under heavy artillery”. I stay in my bed, like an infant in its mother’s belly; I find solace in my bed while sipping a hot chocolate (also comforting).

06H15 : My Greek landlord who lives right besides Bemba’s house just called. His wall has been pierced by bullets but its still standing. Later on during the day, he will ask me to get MONUC to escort him out of his house accompanied by his two Mercedes. He tells me that he had an offer by the MONUC to flee his house but refused on the ground that he was only wearing a pair of short. I sadly realise that for some people, personal belongings are more important than their own lives…

07H30 : I keep hearing the “gun and Kalashnikovs fires” in “stereo”, live from my house were I am tucked but also on the UN hand set radio. Guards are being fired at.

8H45 : Fighting continues. French “reconnaissance” planes are hovering Kinshasa. Olivier, (an ex French marines) explains to me via text message what it means ; “they are checking things out prior to intervene”. He will prove to be right later on during the day.

09H15 : The belligerents are chasing one another in the cemetery located one km away. I hear the guns. It’s located right beside the gulf course. A friend of mine lives there. He is locked in with the local staff. There are fewer mortars but more gun fires. It’s changing into guerrilla warfare.

10H02 : I hear it loud and clear; fighting is taking place right beside my house. Is it the national army fighting Bemba’s troup? I guess so. Last night, my landlord has asked one of the commanders to post military at our compound entry. They asked for coffee when the arrived (meaning: payment). The government (for whatever it exists) does not pay its army. Most problems encountered in the field are due to these armed men which are unpaid, their guns is their salary.

09H00 : Bemba, the opposition leader, has tried to “make believe” he was dead, thus inciting the population to raise and loot. It has not worked… thank god.

11H48 : Calm has resumed. No more Kalashnikovs firing around my compound. I can finally hear the birds singing. Their voice is more melodious than ever before. This “TREVE” is due to the fact that UN Secretary General, Mr. Swing, accompanied by the ambassadors which form the CIAT (International Committee Accompanying the Transition) is currently meeting with President Kabila.

12H00 : The house is trembling, tanks are roaming on the street located some 20 meters away. French reconnaissance airplanes keep hovering above my house.

12H39 : The “Shegue” (boys gangs which are extremely dangerous) are trying to infiltrate my office. The guards’ voices reflect their preoccupation. According to the UN radio, the city is now empty. There are cadavers here and there on the road.

13H13 : Helicopters are also hovering over my house.

13H30 : The No 2 of the Belgium embassy just call to ask me if I can find food for the hospital in-patients. In DRCongo, it belongs to the families to feed their patients. Families being restrained at home just like us are unable to tend to their loved one in the hospitals. Just called the ICRC, for the moment, nothing can be done, we are quarantined at home.

14H01 : A friend tries to cheer me up and writes: “How is paradise?” I respond: “it’s hell”… My Belgium friends are now all sending text messages. They are well informed, DRCongo being an old “Belgium colony”…

16H00 : A cease fire has been ratified between Bemba and Kabila the “two enfants terrible”. The UN SG Rep and the CIAT Ambassadors met with them around lunch time. These two leaders should be ashamed of their behavior. They have taken the 60 million in hostages by putting into danger the election process which is not finished. There are still 35 million USD required for MONUC to be able to conduct the second tour. If donors do not provide the funding who will? These two have endangered the peace process and any hope the international community had to see the country to start rebuilding itself. It is hard to believe, as we keep hearing grenades and Kalashnikovs here and there but yes, it has dwindle down

Great. Yet, the snipers are still in the trenches and it will take a few hours prior to the EUFOR and MONUC to get them out. I am happy. It’s now over.

23H00 : I keep hearing this loud noise and the bungalow (cheap construction) shakes. Once more, I call Michel, "my eyes” to the rescue. What is going on? I describe what I hear and he tells me these are the EUFOR tanks. According to him, they are twice the size of the MONUC tanks. They are fully equipped “à la Rambo”. I can not wait to see them tomorrow. Frankly, I have never been into tanks but these 3 days has changed my vision on heavy artillery.

FINAL NOTE: Tuesday night 22 August

Once the cadavers will have been removed from the city centre, life should resume to some kind of normalcy as early as tomorrow. Again, I will only listen to my gut feeling. If I feel anything, I will stay put, I promise.

I wish to thank all of you who were able to contact me during these 3 days. It was quite an “experience”. Not one that I do not wish to renew nor that I recommend to anyone. At some point today I seriously wondered how long this “experience” would last. We are all lucky to come out unhurt of this sheer madness.

Hence, I promise you all that I will make a point to be out of the country when they will announce the results of the second tour some time (circa November). Once in a life time is enough for me!!! I have had enough of action oriented events I am aiming to a calmer life...

I am moving towards a new chapter, the one of becoming a mother. As you know, I will be going to China to pick up Charlotte some time later on this year (in fact the adoption took place only in 2007)and I must prepare for this new role. I guess Olivier will have some tricks to teach me, he has four children from his previous marriage…I was lucky, very lucky. I only had to stay home for 3 days, I had the basics with me, water, food, exterior contact and a lot of support from my friends much luckier than Lebanese that is a given.

These events are often turning point in one’s life as they allow growing in one way or another. I had time to reflect on a few things as life seemed on a stand still for a while. I had prepared a small bag with my most important personal belongings. The only thing I really cared for was my diary and my computer. I could not think of anything else as I carry the ones I love in my heart.